Sunday, March 29, 2009

Orvieto

For a day trip to get out of the city, Sarah and I traveled to the Hill Town of Orvieto. Home to 3000 year old Etruscan ruins, Medieval architecture, caves, wells, and the famous Orvieto Classico white wine!


Orvieto is a 1 1/2 hour train ride north of Roma, about halfway to Firenze. It is a popular tourist location due to its close proximity to major train lines along with Roma and Firenze. In short, it was a great day trip and we both had an amazing time. One great advantage to my approach of not leaving Italy to travel while I am here is that I have now hit most of the big sites and have the opportunity to visit some of the lesser known places which tends to yeild great results. We got off at the station and bought a card which gave us entrance to basically all the big sites in the city, and for the rest of the day we visited as many as we had time for!

After a ride up the funicular, basically a steep train that brings you to the top of the hill, we did a short walk around one of the Medieval fortresses.

thats a 45 degree angle...


Afterwards we walked into the historic center and saw the Duomo. This size of cathedral is kind of strange to see in such a small city, however throughout time there has been numerous times when the pope had to flee and choose Orvieto as a place to go. This Duomo stands as one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in Italy.

there was a orchestra concert being set up

The inside has beautiful alabaster windows, it was a very simple, clean interior.


The exterior had four columns each telling its own respecting story or the Creation, Old Testament, New Testament, and Revelations.

Inside the Duomo there was the Capella di San Brizio (chapel) which was painted by Luca Signorelli (a infuencial figure for Michelangelo). It told the story of the Apocalypse and was the most beautifully painted frescos I have seen yet.

After leaving the Duomo we climbed the highest remaining tower and got excellent views of the city and surrounding region.

we are so cool....

windy medieval streets


bells


The rest of the walk found us at the otherside of the city where we decided to drop down a long series of switchbacks and boardwalks to visit the Etruscan ruins of Necropoli Crocifisso del Tufo. The Etruscan people inhabited a lot of Italy (especially central) from 900-400BC until the Romans conqured them and stole all their ideas. This site was a necropolis (cemetary) for their ancient civilization in Orvieto.

we are looking up a cliff.


Sarah is tentative about entering.

she is afraid of the spirits.

well she entered a few of them


Etruscan ruins and the cliff of Orvieto

cool 3000 year old writing

After the grueling hike back up the hill and into the city we visited one of the 1200 discovered man made caves in Orvieto, this one happened to have one of the only remaining wells that was dug in the 15th century when the pope hide here and wanted a water source.

Orvieto is known for the three C's, Cathedral, Ceramics, and Classico (wine), and the other one should really be Caves. The Etruscan people dug over 1200 of them in the soft Tufa and Prezzmolo rock (its cool because its what you make cement out of and it hardens when it ozidizes). Only 2 of these caves and owned by the city, so that means that if you live in the city of Orvieto you most likely have your own private cave under your house as well. The Pozzo della Cava was a great example of a private cave along with a great exhibit of old and new ceremics. The clay base for the hill makes great pottery!

this is deep

We hit up the museum of Museo C. Faina (which had some cool bronze stuff and 3000 year old ceramics) before we took a guided tour of the 2 public caves called the Orvieto Underground. In this tour we learned about the caves various uses. Origionally they served as homes for the Etruscans. Around 400 BC the Romans took over and destroyed the city, the Romans never lived here. Then in the 13th century people began to inhabit the hill again. Orvieto became thrown into the turmoil of the wars between Firenze and Siena and served as a fortification for the pope as well, however its was the olive oil, wine, and cement that made the city so prosperous. They would dig out the caves and use the rock for cement. Afterwards they would use the perfectly static temperature of the caves for olive oil presses and wine storage.

old olive oil and wine press stuff

cement cave

old Etruscan well with hand holds to climb back up

pigeon homes/holes

Another fun use was the pigeon homes. Pigeon used to be (and still is...) a very sought after meat. They found that the caves that had natural entrances were perfect for pigeons so they made homes that they would use. It was a free buisness because the pigeons would fly out to eat and then always return home where they eventually were killed and eaten.

The next stop was Pozzo di San Patrizio. This was the enormous well that was dug for a pope in hiding in the 15th century. It is over 250 ft deep and has a double helix to accommodate both human and donkey traffic to the water!

this is even deeper

500 years of money


For the last stop of the day we arrived back at the Duomo to see it lit up at night and ate some tomato/mozzerella/oil paste paninis and drank the Orvieto Classico wine.




the precious Orvieto Classico

Blog Binge

ok....

So I have returned and a lot has happened which I need to blog about, so in the upcoming week or so I should get entries up about the following things:

-Sicily
-Spring Break (Firenze, Venezia, Lake Como)
-Orvieto
-The Vatican
-School
-Corviale
-finish Sardegna

they will not come in any sort of chronological order... and I am leaving to visit Siena, Pisa, and the Cinque Terre on thursday so we shall see how far we get...

Saturday, March 7, 2009

Ice Bars, Renzo Piano, Wine Tasting and Beyond!

ciao tutti!


So this will conclude my postings for about 2 weeks now, I will be traveling with my school to Sicily for a week, then I will meet up with my sister (Molly) and Sarah for another week of traveling to Firenze (florence), Venezia (venice), and Menaggio on Lake Como (north of Milano). So dont get too eager to hear about my great adventures until the 20th or so.

So, to wrap things up, I will discuss some random recent happenings (and finish my Sardegna post)

First off, Ice bars.

its a bar made up of ice. and you get to wear a sweet silver coat.

get it, its ice...


sibling ice drink drinking

group ice bar fest!

Second, Renzo Piano.

Sweet architect who did this awesome concert hall.

that roof is made of lead.... how bad ass is that!


cool stuff

Third, Wine tasting.

We had a native Sicilian host a wine tasting and food party yesterday. We drank three different types of wine from Sicily, all were very good! He also talked a lot about the importance of food and drink in Sicilian culture. For example, in Italy they are very protective of their native wines. There are many types of wines and each vineyard names each type of wine which results in endless numbers of wine. He described it by saying this.... "I like wines from California, and I like some wines from Tuscana but the Sicilian Nero d'Avola is my wine. Its like drinking my dead grandfather (he drank a lot of wine). Its my heritage..."

Unfortunatly I dont have pics from this yet....

anyways! Off to Sicily!


ciao

Monday, March 2, 2009

Sardegna






Here we go!


Two weeks ago I went on a 5 day trip to the island of Sardegna with Brian Moore. The goal was to get outside, camp, beach, have fun, and explore.

If you were to design an island perfect for Brian, this is about as close as Ive ever found. Simply, Sardegna is amazing. Here is a list of things you can do there:
-beach some of Italys best beaches
-climb on world class steep limestone cliffs
-visit Europes deepest canyon, and others like it!
-chase sheep/goats/mouflon
-see beautiful Italian farms and countryside
-eat amazing Italian food
-cave
-swim in the water
-stay at a bed and breakfast...
-climb mountains
-etc...

This entry will have more pictures than words, because it just works better. Instead I will just tell the stories (make sure to click on them to see them bigger!)

(More pictures coming! so make sure to look back here)

The Beginning

after our review (yes I do some school here) on thursday we did some last minute shopping. I had earlier bought a small down sleeping bag, and we went to the hardware store for a plastic tarp that would serve as our shelter. The goal was to travel as light as possible, we would be doing a lot of walking so we needed to just bring exactly what we needed.

home is where the tarp is...


We set off at 7:00pm for Termini station to catch our train to Civitavecchia the modern portcity of Roma. We got lost right off the bat and ended up at the spanish steps (oops). However eventually we got to Termini and boarded the train for a one hour ride to Civitavecchia. This train was later than we expected and our ferry to Sardegna left at 10:30. We arrived at the station at just before 10. Not realizing there was a shuttle to the ferry we spent the next 20 min. running as fast as possible the mile to the port. We arrived sweaty but happy at the ferry.

this is italy

Now Im not a cruise type person so Ive never been on a really big boat. But this was a really big boat. it had 11 levels, 6 of them for cars. I would guess that the length of the boat was around 1000 ft. We got seats in first class since second class was closed (you can also get beds!). To celebrate our successful departure of the mainland we explored to find the top of the boat and then drank our celebratory boxed wine.


7 hours later we arrived in Olbia, Sardegna. From here we had got a bus south to Siniscola where the plan was to catch another bus to Dorgali. Now... Brian is much better at Italian than me, so the plan was that I would know logistics and he would do all the talking, it worked out pretty well! After arriving in Siniscola we discovered that the bus system is a mess on Sardegna and they only use about 1 of every 10 fermata (bus stops). So we spent the next 2 hours doing laps through Siniscola to find out bus stop. Our main quota from this trip is, Dov'e Dorgali? (where is Dorgali?). We probably said this at least 20 times. Finally, with the help of an old man, we were on the way to Dorgali. We arrive just before noon.

this is Sardegna

From Dorgali we did the 3 mile hike across the mountain pass towards the fishing village turned tourist resort Cala Gonone.

brian with box wine in hand on the way to Cala Gonone

We were walking primarily on a busy road but it was still very nice , we hiked through a long tunnel and emerged in a world of happiness, love, oceans, rocks, and joy.

yes please


im real!

We were so impressed by this bliss we took a lunch break in some rocks and decided to forget the road and hike through the country down towards Cala Gonone. This lead to being lost for 3 hours and having a tough encounter with some sheep. Resulting in Brian sacrificing the boxed wine to use as a weapon against them.

SHEEP BLOCKADE!!!



t
his is an important map!

Finally we got back on track and dropped down into the town of Cala Gonone. However it was off season and 3 oclock so we could find anything but empty playgrounds. So we decided to continue on to one of our main goals, the pristine beach (or so we hoped) of Cala Luna.

Cala Gonone

2 miles of road walking along the shore ended in a dramatic gorge. Then it was another few miles on rougher (but decent) trails. Dropping down and hiking back up through the numerous gorges on the way to the beach. We were going pretty fast in hopes of arriving while it was still light outside (and there was a storm approaching!). Finally as the sky was darkening we dropped down into the gorge of Cala Luna. Only to find we were on the wrong side of a mysterious body of water.


on the way to Cala Luna

As night approached we traversed both cliff sides in an attempt to get to the beach that was to be our home. Finally, it was concluded that we had to cross this water (ford the river!). It appeared to be fairly shallow, but we were working by the light of headlamps and couldnt tell depth. So, off went the shoes and socks, and up went the pant legs. Into the water we went, looking down to make sure we didnt step on anything bad (like a shark). The water was great! (after the first 5 seconds when you went numb that is). And we were able to successfully cross without going any deeper than our kneecaps. Success! We arrived at Cala Luna. Due to the darkness we wernt able to explore much, however we found a nice cluster of circular limestone rocks that would make a great fire pit and we set up camp right on the beach. We put up our trap since rain was threatening (however it turned out to be a amazingly clear and dark night)

And after drinking some of our celebratory Scotch Whiskey, and after sitting around the fire listening to the waves, and after discussing what would cause us harm during the night on the beach (we decided seal attack was the biggest threat), we bedded down for the night.


camp

Day 2 on the Island

get it! it says Cala Luna!

waiting for the sun

here is our sweet camp

We woke up for sunrise.

morning on the beach